06.23.2026
For many years, I have dreamed of Nepal. The country with the world's highest mountain peaks and, according to rumors, the friendliest people in the world. Now the dream was finally about to come true; the Annapurna mountain range is said to be the starting point for some of the world's most stunning hikes.
Laughter Comes Easily
At the airport I meet my hiking companions for the next 16 days, and the ice is already broken by the time we hit security. As we board the plane, it feels like we are old friends. Laughter comes easily, and my gut feeling tells me this is going to be a wonderful trip!
Kathmandu: An Explosion for the Senses
Once we arrive in Kathmandu, we are met by the guys who will guide us safely through the trek: our head guide Lakpa and his friend Sures. The world’s happiest guys give us a warm welcome, almost making us forget that we’ve been traveling for 16 hours and really should be exhausted. The chaotic Kathmandu traffic leaves quite an impression on me (several times along the way, I count my blessings that I’m not the one driving!).
Pokhara: Kathmandu's Little Brother
Our next stop is Pokhara, Nepal's second-largest city, beautifully situated by Lake Phewa. It is clean and neat, with noticeably cleaner air than Kathmandu. Pokhara is a fantastic city for anyone who loves activities; here you can rent boats, bicycles, go paragliding, and much more!
Let the Hike Begin!
After squeezing in some more sightseeing and a bit of shopping, everyone's legs were itching to get started on what we actually came here for: the trek, and the path toward Annapurna Basecamp itself!
We drive a couple of hours to Naya Pul, and here we meet our porters, who will ensure that the only things we need to think about are water and snacks in our daypacks. These guys practice a (to me) slightly different carrying technique; instead of using shoulder straps and a hip belt, they tie two and two bags together, attach a kind of headstrap—and carry it with their forehead! Fascinating—and according to them, much easier. I got to test this out myself, but I think I still prefer my trusty hiking backpack.
The Mountain Landscape Reveals Itself: "Zindagi ramailo cha"
We begin the hike on good roads, but soon we are inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, the terrain changes and the mountain landscape reveals itself. What a view! The warm weather combined with the fantastic nature sends our spirits through the roof. Sing-alongs echo; we sing Norwegian hits and Nepali folk songs interchangeably, teaching each other phrases and verses. "Now we're having a great time!" is a phrase constantly repeated. Or as our Nepali friends say: "Zindagi ramailo cha" (life is fun/beautiful)!
Swimming Opportunities in the Fine Weather
Once we arrive in Tirkhedunga, we hear that there are opportunities to swim in the river below us. Still warm after a long day, we don't need to be asked twice; we run down, strip off our clothes, and throw ourselves into the (icy) cold water. Painful, but at the same time kind of good, and a magical end to our first day of trekking.
Real Sherpa Stairs
The road ahead offers stairs - beautiful stairs, steep stairs... a lot of stairs! On the way to Ghorepani, I try to count them but quickly lose focus as I am constantly bypassed by 7- and 8-year-olds on their way to school. They walk up and down these stairs every single day! And they make it look so easy... Personally, I get overly sweaty, and a feeling of pure happiness hits when Lakpa shouts in good Norwegian: "Pause!" (break!). I buy a cold Coca-Cola and sit down with Sures, who tells me that today we are conquering well over 3,000 steps! This turns out to be characteristic of the route; the stretch from Chomrong to Dovan is also covered in stairs - 2,064 steps, to be exact. Fortunately, a reward awaits at the top of all those stairs: the entire Annapurna region opens up, with snow-capped 7,000- and 8000-meter peaks as far as the eye can see.
What a Sunrise!
By day three, we are already at one of the places I’ve heard the most about - Poon Hill (look it up on Instagram, it's magical!). We are going to watch the sunrise here, which requires us to crawl out of our sleeping bags as early as 4:30 AM. We are not alone as we walk in the light of what must be at least 100 headlamps. Excited, tired, but still just as happy. We are on an adventure. Arriving in the dark, we can't see a thing, and right now some are probably wondering what we’ve gotten ourselves into. At 6:25 AM, the sun rises—and wow! I have never seen a sunrise or light like it - and judging by the sounds around me, I’m not the only one who had their breath taken away.
Surrounded by Mountains
With every day we walk, we get closer to our main goal, Annapurna Basecamp (4,130 m above sea level). For everyone traveling here to climb, this is the starting point for the trek up to the world's 10th highest mountain, the 8,091-meter-high Annapurna 1. Fortunately, there are charging options at all the teahouses where we spend the night, because the cameras are used heavily every single day! Constantly new peaks come into view: Machapuchare (known as Fishtail, the sacred mountain that is forbidden to climb, 6,997 m), Dhaulagiri (8,167 m), and Annapurna South (7,219 m). Nature is spectacular, and the wildlife is rich.
Delicious Food in Good Company
The stairs keep multiplying, and we are on our feet for 6 to 8 hours daily - so fortunately, we eat well every single day. Breakfast often consists of toast, fried potatoes, and eggs, and for dinner, we get the Nepali specialty Daal Bhat (lentils, rice, vegetables). Flavorful, and always plenty of food. But the icing on the cake is the lunches; here we get varied and delicious food, and I am constantly impressed by what they manage to cook up out here. It is also possible to buy both snacks and water/soda at almost all the places we stop, in addition to some necessities like toilet paper.
A Blur of Highlights
The highlights are so many that it’s difficult to highlight just a few, but in addition to Poon Hill, reaching Annapurna Basecamp is truly massive. A record-early departure at 4:00 AM, headlamps on, and off we go—and a powerful feeling when we finally arrive. Both because we have reached our goal, and because we are right in the sweet spot when it comes to views of the mountains!
Hot Springs and the Fountain of Youth
The hot springs we find in Jhinu Danda are also something quite unique. After a week on the trail, nothing beats an ice-cold dip in the waterfall before grabbing a nice drink to bring to a heated pool. Wonders for tired muscles!
Radiating Joy of Life
Seeing everyday life in Nepal also makes quite an impression. Here, many are self-sufficient with food, and days are spent working their own land with equipment that isn't exactly modern. Yet, everyone we meet radiates joy of life, good humor, and friendliness; everyone greets us, asks where we are from, and some offer bananas while others want us to taste their home-produced wine. You can't help but lose your heart to these people!
Nepali Culture and Entertainment
The trek is drawing to a close, and when we arrive in Dhampus, it feels like we've arrived in heaven. After many nights in a sleeping bag at teahouses* it is an incredible feeling to see that there is a toilet (a European closet, as it's called in Nepal - a completely normal toilet to sit on) and a shower in the room, and to sleep under a lovely duvet. For dinner, we were also treated to Nepali culture as entertainment. The local dance group came and taught us Nepali folk dance. Truly a great ending to our days in the mountains!
* A teahouse provides accommodation of a simple standard. Small rooms with 2 beds and nothing more. Shared toilet and shower at all of them, a separate dining hall, and a dedicated area for charging phones/cameras. Wi-Fi is available everywhere, but be aware that both showers and Wi-Fi/charging cost extra, and prices increase the higher up into the mountains you get.
The Good Life on the Trail
Once we arrived in Phedi, we were picked up. During the drive back to civilization, we looked backward more than forward. Already, we were starting to miss the mountains, the hikes, the Daal Bhat, and the good life on the trail. There were two things we all wholeheartedly agreed on: we understand completely why this trek is Nepal's most visited - You really get value for your money here! And Nepal has left its mark; one day, we will all go back.