04.21.2025
As the plane touches down in Alta, the adventure officially begins. We – a group of eager skiers from Norrøna Adventure – can hardly wait to step off the plane and breathe in the crisp winter air. The sun is high in the sky as we load our gear into the taxi, and soon we’re heading toward Øvre Stilla. Excitement hangs in the air – a four-day ski expedition across the Finnmarksvidda plateau awaits.
I often get this question – don’t you ever get tired of this trip? My answer is still the same – no! I can’t really explain why, but there’s just something special about Finnmarksvidda, that’s for sure. Here, you can read about the trip as I experienced it.
Start – From Øvre Stilla to Jotka Mountain Lodge
The landscape opens up quickly as we leave the road behind and glide into a snow-covered adventure. The first leg is short and easy, just eight flat kilometers – a gentle start that gives us a chance to test our skis, boots, and legs. We follow a snowmobile trail, which makes progress easy. Our backpacks aren’t too heavy either, since we get both meals and bedding at the mountain lodges, and the mandatory safety gear is transported in the guides’ sleds.
We cross three lakes on this first stretch, and in the afternoon, Jotka Mountain Lodge appears on the horizon. The traditional red cabin stands out like a warm and welcoming haven in the white landscape. As part of the State Mountain Lodges, Jotka is open to guests 365 days a year. Here, you can step into the warmth, enjoy traditional Sámi food in a cozy atmosphere, and spend the night. The lodge hosts are employed by the state, and it’s common for the same family to run the place for generations.
Tonight, reindeer prepared the traditional way is on the menu, and conversation flows easily around the long table. Our host Lisa provides both the food and the entertainment – we hear her personal story told with charm. After dinner, it's time for a trip meeting, where we go over the plan for the next day before finding our way to bed.
Covering Distance – From Jotka to Mollisjok
With 30 kilometers ahead of us, we get an early start. Along the way, we take regular breaks every hour to refuel and, of course, take photos. A light veil of fog surrounds us this morning, adding a sense of mystery as we clip into our skis and get going. From the birch forest around the lodge, it doesn’t take long before we reach the open plateau – vast and powerful, white surfaces stretching in every direction.
The day begins with gently undulating terrain, and we move almost imperceptibly up and down with the landscape. But nothing lasts forever, and soon we are crossing Iešjávri – the largest lake in Finnmark – where we’ll ski 11 kilometers of today’s stage! The feeling of infinity comes quickly, as the trail ahead disappears into the distance. The fog has lifted, and the cold air makes even a light breeze feel sharp against the skin. Thankfully, our clothing is up to the task, and today our jacket hoods really come into their own.
We fall into a steady rhythm, and slowly but surely, we reach the far shore. Everyday life – with its emails and to-do lists – feels far away. We glide forward on our skis and simply exist. Once we’re back on land, only the final leg remains – 7 easy-going kilometers through scattered birch trees, over small lakes and frozen marshes. We even spot a few ptarmigans – waddling across the snow like rolling snowballs, nearly invisible against the white landscape, or perched in the birch trees, watchful. They belong here, on the plateau.
As we get closer to Mollisjok, the temperature drops, and the sun begins to set. The day is coming to an end, and we’re physically and mentally worn out after many kilometers and countless impressions. But at welcoming Mollisjok, a hot sauna awaits – a blessing for tired muscles. We have time to explore the lodge and relax before a well-earned dinner. Mollisjok Mountain Lodge is a place rich in tradition, and after a long day of skiing, the food tastes even better. Here, they often serve both traditional dishes and more modern fare, and we learn more about the history of these lodges as vital stops along the old travel routes across the plateau. Soon, the northern lights begin to dance across the sky – it almost feels too good to be true.
Mollisjok to Ravnastua via the 'Hundevidda' plateau
A simple bunk bed in an equally simple hut has rarely felt as fantastic as it did that night. Our bodies have rested, and we greet the new day with (almost) fresh legs and good spirits. We have more time this morning—today's stage is only 6 kilometers shorter than yesterday's, but it feels easier, and we take a bit less time. We enjoy a good, nutritious breakfast, prepare a generous lunch, and pick up our thermoses that the staff has filled with hot water for us.
Another beautiful day on the plateau lies ahead, 24 kilometers on skis through a desolate yet beautiful landscape. Although we follow the marked snowmobile trail, and snowmobiles occasionally pass by, there is undeniably a unique calm here, a feeling of being one with nature—how mighty it is and how small we are. We begin again in the birch forest, gently climbing in pleasant terrain. Today we cross "Hundevidda," an area known for its especially harsh weather, with a potentially unforgiving wind. Many times, both skiers and snowmobile riders have found themselves up here in thick snowstorms and the densest fog, with only one goal in mind—getting indoors. But today, we are lucky—the sun is shining, and the wind shows no signs of appearing. The visibility is impeccable, and from the ridgelines, we can even see Stabbursdalen National Park with its striking mountain formations formed by peaks over 1,000 meters—Gáisaene—that rise from the ground in this otherwise flat landscape.
There are few opportunities for shelter here on the plateau, but about halfway through, some small mound formations appear, providing us with a nice spot in the sun. We make a snow sofa and enjoy a well-deserved lunch. It's not every day the weather allows for this, but today the weather gods have been kind to us. After lunch, we continue across "Hundevidda," and along the way, we see an occasional reindeer, trotting with its head down, searching for its meal of lichen hidden under the snow. A magical sight that reminds us we are crossing an ancient Sami landscape.
In the early afternoon, we arrive at Ravnastua, warmly located deep in the birch forest. Again, we enjoy a warm meal and round off the day in the sauna, where tired bodies receive some well-deserved relaxation.
The Final Stage - From Ravnastua to Ássebákti
The final day is 15 kilometers, but despite a few extra meters of elevation gain today, and a blister or two bothering their shoes, both the legs and the terrain feel light. We know the end is near, and with that comes a mix of satisfaction and bittersweet feelings. The plateau has given us some of its finest days—the nature, the weather, and the atmosphere. But we must not forget to enjoy this last day, and as usual, we pack a good lunch and have snacks ready in our inner pockets. Today's journey takes us mostly through beautiful birch forests, and it's not unusual to encounter a grouse—though it managed to hide too well on this particular day. We glide up and down a more rolling landscape than we have experienced earlier in the trip, taking our usual breaks, and I can confirm that the chocolate tastes just as good today. The last part of the stage takes us down a 5-kilometer-long slope—mostly gentle and very easy—it feels good to be rewarded for our efforts with these kilometers that pass so quickly.
Suddenly, we are in Ássebákti. It undeniably feels strange to be here, skis packed up, and a taxi ride back to Alta waiting for us. We are excited, but there’s also a bittersweet feeling—it’s over. We haven't been driving long before we start looking back on a trip filled with experiences; we’ve made new acquaintances, crossed the entire plateau on skis, eaten good food, been out in all kinds of weather, heard incredible stories, and more. Above all, we've had extraordinary nature experiences. We are still on the plateau as we drive back, and we realize just how far we’ve skied—we look toward the area we’ve crossed, and goosebumps rise on our arms at the thought that, we were there! Finnmarksvidda is not just a place but a feeling—a tranquility that stays with us long after the skis are packed away. We started as a group with backpacks and expectations in our minds, and we finish with memories we carry forward. As we descend from the plateau, everything calms down. The trip has been more than just a journey, and we already feel a longing to return. Thank you for the experience, and goodbye, Finnmarksvidda!
- Elise