This is the diary of Antoine, guide for the "Icons of the Fjords" , an epic, compelling journey designed to hike to the three most famous hikes in all of Norway. These are the undisputed Norwegian Rockstars: Kjerag, Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock), and Trolltunga. This account chronicles how he experienced this adventure alongside his guests.
Shades On, Game On: Assembling the Crew in Stavanger
Here we go for the Icons of the fjords. This time, it was an all-American squad, guided by a Frenchy who call Norway home, and they arrived, ready to deliver.
The old saying about Norway, that you might see all four seasons in a single day proved false. Landing at Stavanger airport, it felt like deep summer with 25 celsius and a burning sun.
I met the first two adventurers, and we immediately hit the road, driving through the city bathed in the golden, late-afternoon sun. Shades on, game on.
We linked up with the rest of the crew at the hotel. Everyone had landed in great shape, sporting big smiles and high energy. Only one piece of luggage was delayed, belonging to one determined New Yorker, yet nothing, not even lacking gear, could touch her motivated spirit.
We wrapped the day with a city stroll under the glow of the setting sun. The town was alive, music, dancing, summer clothes, and beers everywhere. The university students were celebrating the start of the year, and the biggest festival was kicking off that very night.
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The boulder with many fans / Kjerag
After a less-than-quiet night in a vibrant Stavanger, we were up before the sun. A quick, focused breakfast, and we were in the car. Despite the early hour, one team member had already put in a few miles running! A day without training, as they say, is a day without meaning.
The road out was a spectacular blur: we moved from city to villages, past deep fjords and small mountain towns, finally navigating a challenging, winding road high across the upper plateau. We finally pulled into the start of our first major objective.
The first one does not mean the easiest one. Under a spectacular, cloudless sky, we set off at a demanding pace, perhaps too demanding on the steep, relentless ascent toward Kjerag.
Kjerag is not a gentle slope. It’s a grinding rhythm: up, down, sharp up, a flat-ish reprieve, before you’re maneuvering a hidden crack, climbing over one boulder only to find another famous boulder, stuck for all eternity, waiting for its many fans.
Unplugged highlight : Flørli
After the tour, we drove again and took a short stroll through the very small town of Lysebotn under a burning sun, before boarding a ferry toward the most unique destination of this trip.
I felt a genuine thrill of excitement at the prospect of regaining that feeling of absolute disconnection that only a few places can offer. Here we are in Flørli. We disembarked, the ferry departed, and suddenly, we were isolated.
This stay in Flørli was the undeniable high point of the tour, perfect weather, great host, satisfying challenges, and truly excellent vibes.
The legendary stairs are a brute-force challenge in themselves. Yet, the sensation of finally seeing the slope ease, breaking above the tree line, and catching the first sweeping glimpse of the view even as your legs are screaming is an unparalleled achievement.
The rest of the day was the ideal summer experience everyone dreams of: sun-drenched trails for the descent, a relaxing, well-earned lunch by the water, and a final, epic steep waterfall hike.
Flørli left a distinct, indelible mark on me, a dreamlike sanctuary, a place to disconnect from the chaos of the world where life truly, wonderfully slows down.
A special thanks is due to our host, Hessel, who was extraordinary and made this intense experience feel so personal. We bid farewell to this unique place beneath a magnificent sunset.
Sunrise ballet on the plateau/ Preikestolen
It is 2am and our swift New Yorker, a blur of energy, took the lead, setting a cracking pace. In barely an hour, our determination had brought us to the edge of the world, Preikestolen, or Pulpit Rock just in time for a sunrise of truly unimaginable beauty.
The sun, a fiery orb, rose from the vast mountain plateau. It cast its initial, powerful beams directly into the deep fjords, skipping off the clouds above before beginning an elegant, captivating dance with the mist.
Our pancakes tasted all the sweeter, almost a reward, shared with this spectacular view and only a handful of other brave, early hikers (and, admittedly, a swarm of mosquitoes). Seeing the main wave of trekkers beginning their ascent, we chose our moment to leave the summit.
We had the rest of the time ahead of us after such an early hike. In my time in Norway, I’ve learned that the Norwegians have very few specific environments where they truly unlock and let themselves go into meaningful conversation. A long tour, hiking, skiing, or kayaking, is one. The other, the great equalizer, is the sauna. And that was the perfect, intense way to cap the day, forging a strong, tight bond within the group.
To the tongue / Trolltunga
After a tough, quick, windy hike, we quickly got back on the road, heading north along that long, winding, beautiful stretch of highway. The drive itself was surprisingly good, with some loud, upbeat songs on the radio making the journey way better than expected.
Our final stop was up next, the last place to rest before the biggest, most exciting hike of the whole trip.
Here’s the key: get an early start. We were the first and only car in the quiet parking lot. This was going to be the longest walk, though not the hardest, and we set out with real determination, wanting to be among the very first people that day to stand on the famous Trolltunga.
The rain and dark clouds tried to cover the mountain, but we kept pushing through.
It stayed a gray, misty, rainy world until the very last, incredible moments. Just as we were about to step onto the famous rock, the sun, a bright, powerful beam, broke right through the clouds. As the perfect way to cap off this wonderful adventure, a final, great wink to end this wonderful adventure with amazing glory.
Great guests and a happy guide
Honestly, they were an incredible group; their pace was unusually fast, and their energy never wavered.
But that's just a fun detail. The real magic was how smooth everything felt. It was one of those groups where the conversation just flows easily and quickly moves to deep, meaningful topics. Every single guest was interesting and positive. It was a genuine pleasure getting to know each one of them and that's the best part about these smaller group tours.
So, a huge thanks again to Alisha, Jay, Cristina, Ryan, and Angela for making this adventure full of awesome memories and great laughs!
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