04.10.2025
A short flight for most Europeans, and a longer journey for others—but nonetheless worth the effort to find yourself in the heart of the Balkans, in the mighty Accursed Mountains. Tucked away from the usual tourist trails, this rugged and lesser-known corner of Europe offers an experience that feels both refreshingly raw and quietly profound.
Working in the travel industry—and being a lifelong globetrotter myself—I’m constantly daydreaming about remote, far-flung corners of the world to explore. Some places feel like inevitable bucket-list staples, the kind of iconic destinations that have captured our imaginations since childhood: trekking in the high Himalays, wandering the vast deserts of the Saraha, or the exploring lush beaches and untamed jungles of the Amazon just to name a few. These are the places we grow up hearing, reading, and dreaming about—for good reason...
But then there are other destinations—more obscure, less photographed—tucked away far from the glossy pages of travel magazines or the plots of classic adventure novels. These are the wild, unfamiliar mountain ranges in countries we may have never seriously considered visiting—or, if we’re honest, know very little about. And yet, somehow, these trips often appear in our lives as if by chance, through a conversation, a photo, a passing suggestion. They arrive like little sparks of serendipity, nudging us toward the kind of journey we didn’t know we were longing for, and this is how I find myself in Kosovo for the very first time about to begin one of the most unique and stunning hikes I have completed in a region of the world I hardly knew anything about.
Trail magic
The week-long backpacking trip I was about to begin with my new Kosovan friend Adnan is known as the “Peaks of the Balkans.” Often referred to as the P.O.B., this long-distance trail winds its way through the rugged and remote Accursed Mountains, traversing northern Albania, western Kosovo, and southeastern Montenegro—three countries I hadn’t really considered visiting before this trip. Not out of disinterest, but more so because in my mind they lived in the realm of the unknown, somewhere off the beaten path.
Until now, I hadn’t realized that this stunning mountain range stretched across all three of these countries, offering up an incredible and authentic wilderness experience. With scenery more reminiscent of The Sound of Music than the ominous name might suggest, the Accursed Mountains delivered everything an adventurous hiker could ask for. Each day, the trail weaved deep through ancient old growth forests, across sweeping alpine meadows, and past remote pastoral villages— many of which we stayed overnight at along the way. Some days I’d spot sheep, cows, and horses grazing far off, herded by shepherds to enjoy the rich seasonal grasses, while on other days, I’d find myself trekking alongside them on the same path. – Beep, beep, my kind of mountain traffic.--
Along the hike the skyline is broken up by large towering Kharts towers, similar to those you’ll find in the Dolomites. On one day in particular when the trail passes by the Karanfili mountain range, also known as the three-head mountain, the views are so stunning that I could think of nothing better than to sit across the valley lost in a day dream mesmerized by the immenseness and grandeur of the cliffs. I believe it’s probably the same impression art enthusiasts get while looking over a great piece of artwork, but in this case it’s nature's art gallery on display.
The trail is best when shared with freinds.
Even though I could go on at length about the diversity and beauty of the landscapes along the trail, what struck me as especially unique about the P.O.B was how the hike didn’t just lead us through a breathtaking mountain landscape—it also offered a fresh and unexpected cultural immersion. It began subtly at first, almost catching me off guard, but soon permeated itself into the entire experience, adding a rich and lasting layer to my time in the region. My limited understanding of this region in the Balkans had been shaped mostly by its turbulent past—headlines and history lessons that painted a picture of conflict and division. But it wasn’t until I set foot in each country, and more intimately, in the small villages and towns tucked along the trail, that I began to truly grasp the depth of its vibrant culture and the richness of its diverse communities.
What made the experience all the more meaningful was having Adnan by my side—a seasoned local guide who not only knew every twist and turn of the trail, but also seemed to have a story, a fact, or a familiar face to greet us at every bend. His deep connection to the land and its people brought the entire journey to life in a way I could never have imagined. For me, it was a powerful reminder of just how transformative it can be to travel with someone who calls the region home. So big thanks to everyone who I met along the way who has made this trip an unforgettable experience.
- Mike
