04.29.2025
Ha Giang Province, in the far north of Vietnam, is a place where dramatic landscapes meet rich cultural diversity. Known for its towering limestone peaks, winding mountain roads, and remote villages, it offers a one-of-a-kind adventure for those willing to explore by bike.
Discovering Vietnam
My first visit to Vietnam was back in 2013. In some ways, it feels like a distant memory, yet the vividness of certain moments makes it seem like just yesterday. I still recall the sudden embrace of the tropical heat as I stepped off the plane, a stark contrast to the cool cabin air. The rich, aromatic scent of phở noodle soup wafting from our first meal in Ho Chi Minh after a long overnight flight is etched in my memory. These sensory impressions—intense, immediate, and unforgettable—are the kind that lodge themselves deep within, becoming the most cherished souvenirs of travel. They are the subtle nudges that inspire a return, time and again.
What started as a scrappy climbing trip among friends quickly turned into a full-blown adventure. Embracing the dirtbag spirit, we bought the cheapest one-way tickets to Vietnam, landing us at the opposite end of the country from our goal: Huu Lung, a hidden limestone paradise north of Hanoi. Skipping the easier travel options, we instead bought two barely functioning 100cc motorbikes and set off on a wild 1,700-kilometer ride from Saigon to the north—equal parts daring and inspired.
It was the long way, the slow way, and somehow, exactly the right way.
But that’s a different story entirely. What matters is that this was the spark—the trip that carved Vietnam into our hearts, not just for its world-class climbing, but for its landscapes, its people, and the wild freedom found between the miles.
Northern Vietnam & Ha Giang Province
Despite several trips to Vietnam over the years, the far northwestern reaches of Ha Giang Province had always remained just out of reach. Each visit brought me closer, yet for one reason or another, I never quite made it. Still, the place lingered in the back of my mind—its name tied to images of towering limestone peaks, narrow mountain passes, and valleys carved deep into the landscape.
Ha Giang is a region that borders China and holds some of Vietnam’s most dramatic terrain. It’s a place where mountains rise abruptly from rice-covered hillsides, where remote villages cling to ridgelines, and where over 40 ethnic groups live across a patchwork of highland communities. It’s not especially difficult to reach—a long day’s drive from Hanoi places you at the base of the Tay Con Linh mountain range and the edge of the Dong Van Karst Plateau.
The area has become known, in recent years, for the Ha Giang Loop—a winding 370-kilometer road that snakes its way through this wild terrain. It’s a stunning route, popular among backpackers and scooter tours, often completed in three to five days. But for all its beauty, the main road rarely strays from the well-trodden path.
I had a different plan.
Instead of an engine and a crowd, I wanted something quieter, something slower. Together with a local cycling guide and a small group of riders, we set off on a seven-day mountain biking journey—tracing the edges of the Ha Giang Loop but venturing beyond it. We followed hidden village paths and small local roads, weaving through terraced hillsides in southern Ha Giang before climbing toward the raw limestone escarpments of the Dong Van Kharst Plateau.
Across the mountains on two wheels
After a strong and delicious cup of the iconic Vietnamese coffee — two parts rocket fuel, one part magic — we kicked off our first day in the saddle. Leaving behind the humid buzz of Hanoi, the crisp morning air in the mountains felt like a gift, offering perfect biking conditions.
Spirits were high; confident and caffeinated, we were ready to tackle our first of many mountain climbs. Whether by logistical necessity or perhaps a touch of masochism from our guide, we were quickly thrown into the first steep climb of the day. It was a proper trial by fire, and our first real introduction to riding in the Ha Giang mountains. If you’ve ever seen photos of this region, you’ll know: there are no easy miles here. Every sweeping descent is paid for with a demanding climb. Nothing is given — every breathtaking view, every stretch of road, must be earned. Everywhere the views are breathtaking both on the way up and the way down. But before I could start daydreaming about the journey ahead, I had just one simple task: get to the top of this first hill!
As the days passed and our legs settled into the steady rhythm of the mountains, the riding began to take on a sense of flow. Each day's route ebbed and flowed like the tide, a constant rolling motion of long climbs and sweeping descents. We pedaled our way through dense jungles and wove between jagged karst formations that jutted up from the landscape like the bones of the earth itself. The riding struck that perfect balance — physically demanding enough to pull you into a trance-like state, yet rewarding enough to leave you with a deep sense of accomplishment at the end of each day.
We passed through small, remote villages where children would rush to the roadside, eager to give us high fives or run alongside our bikes, laughing and shouting until we disappeared over the next hill. From time to time we would stop in these villages, ducking into a tiny local restaurant for an incredibly tasty meal or a chat with residents who shared glimpses into life here in the far reaches of northern Vietnam. Each day blended together new stunning landscapes and an introduction to a new, rich culture. On this ride, no two days were the same.
Vietnamese magic
One of the many charms of this trip was the incredible and authentic accommodations we stayed in along the way. After a big day in the saddle, a hot shower and a clean room are a must, but on this trip, our accommodations offered that and so much more. We found ourselves perched in mountaintop bungalows where we could watch the morning fog slowly lift off the rice terraces at sunrise, and tucked into cozy local homestays where the dinners were rich with flavor and heavy with spice. In the small mountain towns, we stayed in quaint hotels that gave us the perfect opportunity to wander the quiet streets after dinner, pop into tiny cafés for a nightcap and just take in the evening buzz of the local life. Each place felt like a reflection of the landscape we had just spent the day riding through — unique, full of character, and offering not just a soft bed to rest our weary legs, but a genuine glimpse into the lives of the people who call these mountains home.
It almost goes without saying that the food on this trip was a dream for anyone who loves to eat. Vietnamese cuisine is world-renowned for its deep flavors and fresh ingredients, but what made this trip truly special was the incredible diversity we experienced along the way. As we pedaled our way through the Ha Giang Loop, we passed through regions where the food was shaped by the many minority groups who inhabit the region. Being a longtime fan of Vietnamese food since my first visit years ago, I thought I had a pretty good sense of what to expect — but on this trip, I had the chance to try dishes I had never even heard of before, meals so rooted in specific villages and valleys that they rarely make it beyond their home regions. It was an amazing surprise to discover new flavors that stretched far beyond what I had known as Vietnamese cuisine — a real gastronomical safari!
Final reflections
As I pedaled my way through these stunning landscapes, I couldn’t help but feel grateful that I had spent some time preparing for the trip by riding in the mountains back home. I’m not sure exactly why, but I’ve always found that biking trips through the mountains seem to demand a bit more from the body than hiking trips — maybe it’s the added challenge of slope and gravity working against you. Whatever the reason, putting in the time beforehand definitely made a difference and allowed me to enjoy every moment to the fullest. I’ve carried a lesson with me since my university days, something my mentor drilled into us with the simple but effective motto of the 5 P’s: "Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance." A bit blunt, but a truth that has served me well ever since. Good preparation always makes the experience better.
Perhaps even more important than my own readiness was the incredible support we had along the way. Our local guides and the team we rode with were absolute pros, and their insight, encouragement, and seamless support allowed us to focus on riding and soaking up the adventure. The guides and bike mechanics were always nearby with a word of motivation or a quick tip, and the vehicle support team would meet us at strategic points along the route, ready with fresh fruit, salty snacks, and blissfully cold electrolyte drinks. It was their holistic support and outstanding communication that allowed us to truly be present in the moment, knowing we were in great hands. A huge thanks and deep appreciation goes out to them.
Looking back on this trip, it’s hard not to feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude — for the landscapes that stretched out before us, for the kindness of the people we met along the way, and for the simple, powerful joy of moving slowly through a place on two wheels. Visiting the mountains of northern Vietnam had long been a dream in the back of my mind, and now it has etched itself into my memory with the same vividness as that first bowl of phở all those years ago. Vietnam has a way of pulling you back in, and after this ride, I know it won’t be long before I find myself there again, chasing new roads and new adventures.
-Mike
